CyberEater Review - 

Donovan’s – Celebrating Liberty In Style

By David Rottenberg
Editor, Dining San Diego Magazine
Member, California Restaurant Writers Association
©David Rottenberg, 2001, All Rights Reserved

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The pathway from the circular driveway led to the massive front doors of Donovan’s Steak & Chop House, standing like guardians of the delights to be found inside. When I entered, the room was glowing with mellow light, bathing the well-attired people standing at the long bar, drinking convivially while waiting briefly for a table.

Donovan’s feels more like a private club than a restaurant. The walls are a deep red mahogany paneling. The booths are leather, soft and comfortable. Interesting paintings in gilded frames decorate the walls. Bronze sculptures by the famous American artist Frederic Remington are scattered on stands throughout the dining room. Servers wearing formal tuxedos walk briskly between the tables, working in teams, caring for their guests with extraordinary service.

It was the evening of September 11, a dark anniversary in America’s bright history.

I wasn’t sure what I’d find when I entered the restaurant, expecting gloom. Quickly, though, I felt proud to see Americans laughing and dining, gloriously basking in the sunshine of liberty, enjoying the fruits of the opportunities they find in our society.

“It was really different a year ago,” Carl Essert, the general manager told me.”I almost did not open the restaurant that night but finally decided to cater to our clientele. We were busy even then but most people ate quietly or sat in the Cigar Room watching the unfolding events on television.” Tonight, spirits were high as guests felt more confident and secure.

Donovan’s offers several private dining rooms and the Cigar Room, in addition to its main dining room. They can accommodate different size groups, ranging from 50 guests in the Del Mar Room to 10 guests in the Wall Street Room. My personal favorite is the Wine Cellar Room, which holds 16 guests in an ambiance of comfortable luxury, a long conference table and surrounding leather chairs . Hundreds of bottles of excellent vintages are ensconced on wine racks built into the walls. The wine list at Donovan’s is so refined that it has won the Wine Spectator Best Award for Excellence.

While my companion and I submitted our orders, Carl Essert told us why Donovan’s is different. “There are many steakhouses from which to choose and many use the same high temperature ovens to sear in flavor. But, at Donovan, two elements are unique. First, ALL of our meats are aged prime quality, not just some of them. That means that the marbling is tops, with flavor concentrated in the meat through the aging process. Second, we always “rest” our meat in the cooking process. We take it out of the ovens for a short time to allow the juices to cook on their own. This adds to the flavor as well.” His point was that the meat at Donovan’s just tastes better.

I had the rib-eye chop, with “bone in” and my companion has the porterhouse. Both steaks were large and thick, perfectly cooked to order (the “right temperature”), accompanied by “skillet fried potatoes” and mixed vegetable. Presentation was lovely.

The filet section of the porterhouse was soft, easily cut. The seasonings created by Chef Martine Venegas were masterful. The rib-eye, my favorite type of steak, was exceptional in taste. 

The menu at Donovan’s is limited, taking up only ½ page. Veal chop and Pork Chop is available, as is Rack of Lamb, Scampi and Australian Lobster. Appetizers include Giant Shrimp Cocktail, Seared Lamb Chops, Maryland Crab Cake and Bacon Wrapped Scallops. The Caeser Salad is a wonderful way to start the meal. The Asparagus Salad, beautifully presented spears extending out of a bed of roasted peppers and mixed greens, suffused in balsamic, is a guaranteed pleaser. But, despite all the options, MEAT is the best reason to come to Donovan’s.

After dessert (crème brulee with strawberries is wonderfully light and sweet), the Cigar Room sounded very inviting. Donovan’s is one of the few restaurants to offer the option to relax in deeply cushioned leather lounges in a filtered air environment while enjoying a brandy and fine cigar. I felt like Winston Churchill, whose name had been mentioned often in the news that day, as broadcasters compared our period to World War II.

September 11 is a day for solemn reflection but also a day for celebration of our good fortune to live in a country of liberty and opportunity. Donovan’s is a good place to celebrate any occasion or simply to revel in the joy of living. It is beautiful, comfortable, with great food and service. Prices are expensive but worth it.

Donovan’s Steak & Chop House is located 4340 La Jolla Village Drive in UTC. Call 858-450-6666 for information and reservations.

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