CyberEater Review

Greystone The Steakhouse – Well Priced Quality

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.© 2004 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

The name “Greystone” often connotes “class”. It can conjure up images of an old English manor house with a large dining room where guests around a long table enjoy the fruits of hunting while being warmed at a large, glowing fireplace. Their plates would be heaped with large servings of steak, fowl and veggies.

Greystone The Steakhouse, on Fifth Avenue in the Gaslamp, tells its story in its name. It is a “steakhouse”, serving prime meat and choice seafood, in an elegant setting. Prime meat represents the best 2% of all meat in the nation, marbled and aged to bring out the highest degree of flavor. Once again, the term “greystone” is synonymous with “quality”.

My first impression of Greystone The Steakhouse was visually exciting. I entered through the narrow doorway, passing the small, popular patio, and looked past the bar. I was enchanted by the staircase, whose sweep of line to the upstairs mezzanine was simply beautiful to me. The main dining room is sunken, below street level. One goes down to it over a short, broad flight of stairs. The visual effect is to create a pleasing sense of volume and height, which adds to the sense of elegance.

The main dining room is a sea of white table cloths. Along the walls, alcoves for tables for small parties provide for intimate dining. The room sparkles. Upstairs, the dim mezzanine area is lined with dark wood and with cabinets that hold some of the restaurant’s wine collection. A bright fireplace casts flickering subdued light onto the diners.

The wine cabinets are full of bottles but there must be a secret vault somewhere that holds a treasure trove of fine wines. The wine list goes on for pages, listing some pricey vintages that are hard to find. Greystone has been recognized by Wine Spectator for its excellent wine cellar. To offset some of the price impact, Greystone also has a fine list of wines by the glass and by the half-bottle.

It is the food, though, the brings customers back. A word of caution – this is not the place to count calories. This is the restaurant in which to savor fine cuisine without guilt or trepidation.

The Seared Sonoma Foie Gras, served with poached pear over a port reduction, simply explodes with flavor. If foie gras is too heavy, try the New Zealand Mussels, lighter but with a tantalizing garlic sauce.

The Lobster and Shrimp Bisque is another excellent way to begin. The rich creamy flavor of the broth, the warm fragrance steaming off the top and the meatiness of the lobster is just wonderful.

Pasta and fowl are offered. The Breast of Sonoma Duck, on a bed of mashed potato, is well prepared, although not as crispy as could be desired. Salmon and swordfish are on the menu, although the manner of preparation changes daily. Seared Ahi, with peppercorn and sesame seeds, is beautifully presented and tastes just as good.

The steaks are Greystone’s forte. Adventurous diners can enjoy buffalo and elk. Both can be more tender than one would think “game” would be. The veal chop is served on a bed of gnocchi and topped with porcini mushrooms. The ribeye is a generous 32 oz, bone in, and brimming with taste. My portion was so large that I took a bag home for my fictitious doggie.

Desserts include a dreamy seven layer chocolate cake and wonderful coffee profiteroles, cream filled pastry cakes topped with a coffee sauce.

Greystone The Steakhouse has set a high standard for quality. Service is attentive. Staff is well trained and can make excellent wine recommendations. There is a cost for excellence, though. Greystone is very expensive. As a result, it has become a good place for power business dinners and gets a lot of business from conventions and out-of-town visitors. Its private room is popular for small corporate events.

Greystone The Steakhouse is located at 658 Fifth Avenue, near G Street. Call 619-232-0225 for information and reservations.

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