CyberEater Review

Osteria Panevino  -- A Loaf of Bread, A Jug……

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and vice president of the North American Travel Journalists Association. He is also the restaurant critic for the exciting new downtown website, www.sdgodowntown.com © 2008 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

What is it with “a loaf of bread, a jug of wine, and thou?” Omar Khayyam, the great Persian poet and mathematician rhapsodized in his collection of poems, “Rubáiyát”, about the joys of simple romance – sitting out in the desert, listening to the wind. Not for me!

As Charlie Sheehan exclaimed in his hit show, (Two And A Half Men), “What, no dinner? No show?” If I’m looking for a romantic evening, I’m going to find the bread and wine but I’m going to dine at Osteria Panevino. That’s what the name of the restaurant means – “pan” bread, “e” with, “vino” wine.

There’s no desert or wind at Panevino, but a comfortable outdoor patio, where the darkening sky as evening falls kindles the light of romance. The interior of the restaurant maintains the charm, with high ceilings, brick walls and attractive murals. The kitchen at the rear wafts mouthwatering aromas of Tuscan dishes being made ready for presentation to eager waiting diners.

Osteria Panevino is not a restaurant in the classic sense. It is not a “trattoria”. An “osteria” is a “tavern”, a relaxed setting for drinking, dining, and enjoying. Osteria Panevino is a sanctuary among the more formal, fine dining establishments that run up and down Fifth Avenue in the Gaslamp. Yet, under the guidance of Master Chef Vincenzo Lo Verso, the quality and appeal of its cuisine is absolutely terrific.

A long, antique wooden bar runs along one wall, with fully stocked shelves. A bank of soft seating runs along part of the opposite wall. House Manager Vincenzo Croce makes sure that everything is pure perfection.

True Italians don’t dive into an entrée. They tantalize with antipasti, appetizers, warming up the palate for the romp of flavors over the tastebuds. Panevino has a whole list delights, including two signature items, COZZE IN UMIDO, New Zealand Mussels Sautéed with Garlic, White Wine and a Touch of Fresh Tomato Sauce and TORTINE DI GRANCHIO, Dungeness Crab Cakes served with Baby Mixed Greens and a Honey Mustard Sauce. Two kinds of carpaccio are served, both offering thinly sliced filet mignon. One comes with Arugola and Capers, and Shaves of Parmesan Cheese. The other is accompanied by Hearts of Palm, Avocado, Goat Cheese and Olive Oil. Both are excellent.

When the mouth is tingling with anticipation, it is time for entrees. Italians are famous for pastas as well as meat and fish dishes.

The pastas at Panevino are amazing. The chefs make even the humblest linguini or fettucine as thrilling as any more complex creation. Yet, nothing is simple. LINGUINE ALLO SCOGLIO is tossed with Clams, Mussels, Calamari and Shrimp in a Light garlic and basil tomato sauce, so simple and yet so full of different flavors. FETTUCCINE MICHELANGELO is a housemade Pasta with Artichokes, Prosciutto and Shitake Mushrooms that won’t be soon forgotten. RAVIOLI MEDITERRANEO, large and thick Housemade Ravioli Filled with Lobster, Shrimp, and Zucchini with a Fresh Creamy Tomato Sauce, was perhaps the best I’ve ever enjoyed

With water on three sides of the country (the boot of Italy is a “pen”insula – almost an island), seafood has always been important. SPIGOLA IN CROSTA, fresh Filet of Sea Bass with Grilled Zucchini, Fresh Herbs and Cherry Tomatoes in a a Lemon White Wine Sauce, is an example of the art of fine Italian preparation.

What is more classis Italian dish that Osso Buco prepared in the Milanese style, a large veal shank slowly braised with red wine and vegetables? I requested mine to be served with fettucine, homemade pasta that sopped up the flavorful juices that were topped off with the sensuous marrow that filled the bone. I was totally unembarrassed as I slurped the good stuff.

So, when in the mood for romance, when bread and wine are hankering for the “thou”, Osteria Panevino is the romantic restaurant that may give rise to poetry from one’s lips – over the delicious food and warm ambiance.

Osteria Panevino is located in the Gaslamp at 722 Fifth Avenue. Prices are moderate. Call (619) 595-7959 for reservations and information or visit www.osteriapanevino.com

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