CyberEater Review

Peohe’s City Lights

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.@2006 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

“I love the lights of the season,” my companion proclaimed. “Christmas lights, chanuka candles, all the lights that scintillate and glow, dispelling the gloom and darkness of winter. And I love the city lights that twinkle like a huge ornament in the distance.”

We were enjoying an early dinner at Peohe’s (pronounced pay-oh-heez), a unique setting on Coronado that has a breathtaking view of the downtown skyline. It was already dark but the silhouettes of the buildings across the purple bay were outline brilliantly by the glowing office windows. It was beautiful.

Peohe’s has served a loyal clientele for more than 22 years. It was part of the Charthouse Restaurant chain and then was recently acquired by Landry Restaurants, which also owns such California eateries as Joe’s Crab Shack and The Charthouse. The Peohe’s concept is unique, though, and has never been copied or replicated. Peohe’s serves only Angus certified beef and the freshest of fish. Crab Stuffed Tilapia, a popular light fish, for example, is coated with bread crumbs and stuffed with crab before baking and finishing with a butter sauce.

Arriving by car is only one of the ways to reach Peohe’s. One may drive over the sweeping gracious curves of the Coronado Bridge from downtown. There is also a convenient landing dock for boats. If one owns a yacht, one can take a nautical jaunt for dinner.

The theme of the restaurant is “tropical, complete with trees, plants and a recycling waterfall. The main dining room is situated on an undulating surface, like small rolling hills, fitted with comfortable booths that blend with the lush background. The sound of running water enhances the theme. In one corner, a large fish tank holds brightly colored fast swimming specimens. Many of the restaurant’s walls are made of clear glass.

A large deck runs around the perimeter, for gracious dining during lovely evenings. Heat lamps make the deck comfortable year-round. Several rooms extend off the main dining room. Actually, Peohe’s is quite large and can accommodate as many as 500 guests. It has been a popular location for weddings and other large parties. Seating is arranged so that almost everyone can have a view of the bay and the city beyond. Everyone has “the best seat in the house.”

The menu reflects what’s fresh in seafood, but also lists a good selection of meats. Preparations focus on fusion and run towards Hawaiian-Asian-Pacific Rim concepts. The Raw Bar section offers shrimp and oysters on the half shell. Try the Crab, Avocado and Mango Stack, a satisfying, eye appealing tower of freshness. Pacific Fire Shrimp are sautéed in garlic and butter and are spicy.

Crab Cake and Thai Chicken Spring Rolls are great appetizers, quickening the palate with sauces and textures. Herb Steamed Artichoke, in a lemon basil aioli, is a delightful conversation builder, as diners pull leaves soaked in the sauce.

Fresh fish selections include Chilean Sea Bass, grilled and served with a Pinot Noir sauce and a delightful Hawaiian Ono, crusted with crabmeat. Lobster Ravioli also includes shrimp and scallops. Lobster Tail is flown in from Australia.

Prime Rib and steaks are available for the carnivores, served with garlic mashed potatoes. The Filet Mignon is a very tender cut, full of meaty flavor.

The extensive wine list is printed on the back of the menu and worthy of study. Most selections are California vintages. The listing “by the glass” is limited but diverse, with most choices priced reasonably.

Be sure to leave room for dessert. The “no ka oi” (which means “the best” in Hawaiian) is a satisfying combination of macadamia nut ice cream and chocolate. Key Lime Pie and Macadamia Nut Crème Brulee are among the other selections. Peohe’s famous Hot Chocolate Lava Cake must be ordered 30 minutes in advance. It is a blending of Godiva Chocolate Liqueur, molten chocolate in the center, topped with macadamia nut ice cream and Heath bar crunch. The flavors and textures of this dessert work wonderfully together.

Peohe’s now boasts a large sushi bar menu, with many choices of rolls and “new wave” sashimi. The Rainbow, a colorful lobster California roll topped with tuna, yellowtail, shrimp and avocado, is very popular.

Peohe’s is a grand venue for casual dining, romantic evenings or that special occasion. It is an absolute treasure during the Holiday Season. The menu is expensive but the view is priceless.

Peohe’s is located at 1201 First Street in Coronado. It is open daily for lunch and dinner and for brunch on Sunday. Reservations are suggested. Call 619-437-4474.

RETURN TO:FEATURES RESTAURANTS GLAMOROUS GETAWAYS