CyberEater Review

Bali Hai Restaurant – Young At Over 50

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.© 2004 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

“That’s funny! You don’t look over 50,” I said to the cute, young miniskirted hostess at Bali Hai Restaurant on Shelter Island. I was actually referring to last year’s celebration of the restaurant’s 50^th anniversary. In 1954, Tom Ham bought out the restaurant he managed, changed its name to “Bali Hai” after the movie, and created a venerable culinary institution that continues to provide its guests with good food and amazing views. With its history as a venue for private parties, weddings and banquets, Bali Hai has touched the lives of many local residents. But the quality of food and service and the beauty of the setting make it as new and fresh as today.

The restaurant is located at the far tip of Shelter Island, right on the water’s edge. A free large parking lot is conveniently located in front. A beautiful garden area is entered through a side gate along a path that leads to a small white curved bridge that goes over a narrow stream. With the trees and flowers and bay behind it, the garden bridge is a perfect setting for wedding and graduation photos. A small “Bali Hai dock” offers mooring to vessels that sail to dine at the restaurant. Years ago, I participated in a number of sailing events that always ended with celebratory dinners there.

The building is two stories high. The ground floor has meeting rooms for parties, weddings and banquets. During the season, three or four weddings might be catered on one day. The outside area between the building and garden is perfect for cocktails and mingling.

The restaurant is on the second story. An elevator is available but the staircase is decorated intriguingly with artifacts that could have come from the South Seas. The décor is distinctively Polynesian. Tikis hang on the walls along the staircase and landing. Large tikis guard the front door. A huge tiki head wearing a chef’s cap named “Goof” sits on the top of the roof.

A “tiki” is usually a wooden carved totem-like statue that has symbolic religious and mystical meaning to dwellers in the South Seas, like Tahiti, the Marquesas, Polynesia, and even New Zealand. "Polynesian mythology reveals that in Maori lore, Tiki was the name for the procreative power of the god Tane, creator of the first woman." Even the huge figures on Easter Island are considered “tikis”.

A bar is located at the entrance to the dining room beneath a pyramid of heavy wooden beams. Many tables are placed close to the curvilinear window, a semicircle of glass that offers outstanding views of the bay and downtown. After dusk, the twinkling lights provide an glittering backdrop to fine dining. Dolphins and seals often can be seen through the windows swimming in the bay.

In keeping with Bali Hai’s architectural theme, the menu is Polynesian, with some Chinese and Japanese overtones. My favorite appetizer, Lobster Wontons are small bits of lobster, wrapped and deep fried and served with a garlic aioli and fabulous salad on the side. Ichiban Ahi is seared rare ahi with a Wasabe ponzo sauce that is mouthwatering.

The menu lists a fine selection of wok dishes. Cashew Chicken blends tended chicken with bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, mushrooms and snap peas. Bali Hai Classic dishes include Shrimp in a special Bali Hai sauce and Kapahulu Steak, which is a New York strip in a shiitake cream sauce.

Kona Cuisine lists the most creative and innovative dishes, including Hana Mandarin Pork Loin, soy marinated pork loin with smoked pepper bacon, grilled with a mandarin orange hoisin honey glaze. Also tempting was Salmon Wellington, a salmon fillet with crab stuffing, wrapped in puff pastry.

“We’ve changed our menu and have received a tremendous response from people,” Grant Baumann told me. “Guests enjoy our food and come back again and again.” Grant Baumann is the grandson of Tom Ham and one of the general managers. Even after more than 50 years, it is still a family business.

Bali Hai serves a number of Polynesian-type drinks, like Mai Tai. “Our drinks are very popular because they are so delicious and well priced,” Baumann continued. In fact, menu prices were remarkably reasonable, given the quality of the food and the beautiful setting of the restaurant. Sunday Brunch is an excellent way to sample a number of Bali Hai’s more popular dishes.

Bali Hai offers unique flavors and magnificent views to enhance any meal. Reservations are recommended. The restaurant is located at 2230 Shelter Island Drive. For more information and directions, 619-222-4081.

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