CyberEater Review – 

California Pizza Kitchen – PIZZA – UNIQUE CANVAS FOR FLAVORS

By David Rottenberg

Editor, Dining San Diego Magazine

Member, Southern California Restaurant Writers Association

Member, California Restaurant Writers Association 2003, All Rights Reserved

Copies of Dining San Diego Magazine are available free at concierge desks and front desks at San Diego’s most popular hotels and visitor destinations.

Lawyers, not chefs, started this successful restaurant chain. Culinary experts usually are on the ground floor of such a project, to create menus and concepts. By contrast, two attorneys founded California Pizza Kitchen, the popular chain that has grown in 15 years to more than 135 full service units worldwide and 24 CPK/ASAP limited service units. Like so many others in the difficult legal profession, Larry Flax and Richard Rosenfeld were looking for another way to make a living.

Flax and Rosenfeld worked together at the US Attorney’s office in Los Angeles. They got together to form their own law partnership. But they both loved cooking and decided to give the restaurant business a try.

After looking a successful business models in the industry, particularly Wolfgang Puck’s Spago Restaurant, they developed a simple but very innovative concept. The idea, in a nutshell, was to serve high quality pizza in comfortable, casual surroundings at moderate prices.

Pizza dough became the “canvas” for artistic expression of flavors. Designer pizzas, such as those created by Puck used exotic ingredients. The partners decided to work with tastes that were closer to home. “We create food based on familiar flavors. We want to offer tastes that Americans want to eat. At California Pizza Kitchen, when you read the description on the menu, you can taste it,” Flax said. The second major innovation was the creation of exhibition kitchen using wood burning ovens. ”We coined the term ‘wood-fired’. It defines CPK’s unique way of preparing pizza,” Rosenfeld added. By exposing the cooking areas to diners, they capitalized on the idea of “cooking as entertainment.”

The first unit was established in Beverly Hills. It became an instant success, even popular with entertainment celebrities. Merv Griffin, Jodie Foster and Jane Seymour are among the famous who dine there. Even movie stars must wait for tables, though. A strict “no reservation” policy is enforced.

There are four CPK units in San Diego and one in nearby Temecula. The first location was in a small shopping center in Solana Beach. Then, over the years, locations were added in La Jolla Village Square, Carmel Mountain, and Fashion Valley. I enjoy the casual ambiance in Solana Beach, where trim athletes jog by the restaurant windows as I bite into my pizza’s crust.

My mouth began to water from the moment I picked up the menu. The photographs were tempting but the descriptions really let me know what good stuff was coming. There is a good list of appetizers, soups, salads and focaccia sandwiches. But here, pizza is the star attraction. There are 22 variations on the theme.

The pizza crust is thin and made of flour, although honey wheat dough can be requested. Each pie on the menu has different toppings and unique taste. FRESH TOMATO, BASIL & GARLIC is just as described, with both Mozzarella cheese and Parmesan cheese. It is terrific for limited calorie diners. CARNE ASADA is topped with grilled steak, fire roasted mild chilies, onions, cilantro, Mozzarella and Monterey Jack cheeses. This and TOSTADA are terrific for their “south of the border” flavors. PEKING DUCK, TANDOORI CHICKEN, HAWAIIAN and JAMAICAN JERK CHICKEN pizza are all available for diners whose taste buds roam overseas. WILD MUSHROOM and PEAR & GORGANZOLA are among selections listed for sophisticated palates. PEPPERONI and SWEET & SPICY ITALIAN SAUSAGES are available for traditionalists. VEGETARIAN WITH JAPANESE EGGPLANT are offered for vegetarians. And there are more…..

To coin a pun, CPK hasn’t always made dough. PepsiCo bought a big position in the company years ago but divested its interest later to a venture capital group. Flax and Rosenfeld weathered the financial storms and are still involved. A new chief executive was hired who had years of successful chain management experience. Money losing locations were closed and new locations were opened. The new concept, CPK/ASAP operates with limited menu and service in locations such as airports, where fast service is necessary. The company earnings have improved.

Over the time, though, the mission of the company has not changed – to provide high quality food in casual setting at moderate prices. All pizza on the menu is under $10. California Pizza Kitchen is a wonderful place for fun dining for the entire family. Most locations are within an easy drive countywide. Call 858-793-0999 or 619-298-4078 for locations and information.

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