CyberEater Review

Clay’s La Jolla - A Star Rising In The West

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.© 2006 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

I watched the sun settle into the ocean, hissing and spitting streams of color and light as the glow faded into a bouncing green flash. A flight of albatross crossed the sun, casting flickering shadows. But as the sun settled in the west, I watched a new star rising – a culinary star whose bright glow will become more intense when more people have the opportunity to taste his cuisine.

I was at Clay’s La Jolla, the latest incarnation of a restaurant on the top floor of Hotel La Jolla. Situated near the corner of La Jolla Shores Drive and Torrey Pines Road, the restaurant has a majestic view of the Shores area and the beautiful ocean beyond. It is a romantic setting from which to gaze at sunsets and the soft glow of village lights that twinkle in the night.

Clay Bordan is the chef/owner of the restaurant. He actually took a cut in pay to open his own venue. A self taught chef who traveled extensively to add experience to his considerable natural talent, he left a job where he was responsible for more than 40 restaurants in hotels. “I’ve been in kitchens since I started working,” Bordan said, “and I decided that I wanted to get back to working with my hands, to get into the swing of things in creating the dishes.” He emphasizes using fresh ingredients in ways that allow each constituent’s flavor to come through, where no single flavor overwhelms.

Bordan did some extensive remodeling before opening to the public. The restaurant is a long narrow room that runs in both directions from the entrance by the elevator. A full bar and beautifully designed small dining room are on the left side. The main dining room is to the right, a row of comfortable booths against the wall and a row of tables against the window. Clear glass running the length of the restaurant opens the whole interior to the sky.

The color scheme of the restaurant attractively utilizes earth tones punctuated by flashes of bright color. It is hip and sophisticated. The effect is very calming and pleasing. It just feels good to sit down to a table to look out at the view.

The kitchen is open. Diners could turn to watch Bordan place beautifully crafted dishes every few minutes for servers to carry back to enthusiastic diners. Our server was friendly, informed and offered excellent suggestions.

We sampled the Lobster Bisque, a true test of a chef’s skill. This version was superb. The dish was remarkably fragrant and full of flavor. The taste of lobster came through sharply, as well as the tomato and the butter. Each flavor could be enjoyed on its own. I could close my eyes and isolate each sensation. Yet, they all blended beautifully, enhanced by a glass of Buena Vista Pinot Noir.

There is a good choice of salads. Clays Signature Salad combines spinach with fruits and delightful onions in a tart dressing. The Goat Cheese salad features a mound of grilled heated goat cheese on spinach, with toast, pine nuts and apricot in a wonderful oil dressing.

Bordan’s work really shined in the entrees. The Grilled Salmon was a generous portion atop roast potato and vegetables. The fish was wonderfully firm. Its solid flavor was brought out by a tasty buttery sauce. Grilled Sea Bass was large, flaky and full of fabulous taste. Seafood and meat dishes are well described.

Desserts are beautifully presented, each with its own sauce and garnish. Tiramisu and crème brulee are among the delicious offerings, as well as a sumptuous lava cake that takes about fifteen minutes to prepare. A good cup of cappuccino goes wonderfully with a tasty selection.

Clay’s La Jolla features entertainment along with excellent food. Jazz is played Wednesday through Saturday. “I’ve got a lot of plans for ways to add to diners’ pleasure,” Bordan concluded. It is good to have him back in the kitchen.

Clay’s La Jolla is located at 7955 La Jolla Shores Drive on the 11^th floor of Hotel La Jolla. When driving north on Highway 5 or east on Highway 52, the address is at the end of the La Jolla Parkway exit. Call 858-551-3620 for information and reservations.

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