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CyberEater Review
May Day At Piatti
By David Rottenberg
David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.© 2004 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved
May 1 is an international workers holiday whose history is purely American. It began in this country in the 1880’s when workers marched in opposition to long hours and meager wages. The symbolic day was later adopted by workers worldwide. Worker agitation over the years has led to the relatively good working conditions we now enjoy.
“May Day”, as it is called, is usally celebrated with military marches and parades of workers, particularly in European countries. My way of celebration was to take two business associates to lunch at Piatti Ristorante in La Jolla, a glorious venue for any important event.
Piatti is a family restaurant that is located in La Jolla Shores, a small pocket area of the city that lies near the intersection of Ardath Road and La Jolla Shores Drive. One short block contains a number of shops and three really good restaurants. The sun was bright and the air was cool, so I chose to dine on Piatti’s beautiful patio.
The exterior of the restaurant looks like an old house which has been converted. Tables are placed close enough to each other that servers have to balance their trays carefully as they walk by. The outdoor patio has a distinctly Italian ambiance, with lots of brick, a bubbling fountain, and a surrounding wall to create privacy. There is a tall, thick ficus tree in the center, with spreading branches to provide shade from the sun. Tables surround the tree, filled with diners who were obviously enjoying themselves.
Although it looks like a small neighborhood eatery, Ristorante Piatti is actually part of successful chain with 12 locations in four states. The concept was developed by Claude Rouas and Bob Harmon, the same team that created Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley, a restaurant that set new trends in quality dining. Rouas is recognized as an honored member of the Restaurant Hall of Fame.
The mission statement of the restaurant chain is to “provide great food in comfortable surroundings.” Chef Pepe Ccapatinta has been at Piatti since it opened. He comes from Peru but his Italian cooking is impeccable.
A basket of bread arrived as soon as we were seated, together with a small plate of dipping oil. The bread is so good that one could almost make a meal of it. The bread has a rock-hard crust and a soft center but, when saturated with the dip, the combination turns on the taste buds for the treats that are to come later. The formula for the dip includes balsamic vinegar, pure olive oil, lots of garlic, red pepper flakes, basil and garlic. The dip is so popular that the restaurant has bottled it and sells it to home use.
The menu is decidedly Italian but the dishes are well-described, without the need for a Berlitz dictionary. Pastas and pizza are excellent. The Margherita Pizza comes with tomato sauce, mozzalrella and basil on a very good crust. “Rotolo di Funghi con Salsa di Porcini”, rolled pasta filled with wild mushrooms, tastes as good as it sounds.
My personal favorite dish at Piatti is the “Pollo della Rosticceria all’Erbe”, the rotisserie chicken, whose skin is coated with zesty herbs. It is a substantial portion, a half chicken that usually comes with potato. I’ll often substitute linguini to enjoy a fresh pasta with the meal.
On this day, though, I elected to dine lightly on the chicken salad, that came with generous chunks of wonderful meat on a bed of crisp greens that was filling and delicious.
My associates and I celebrated the “workers day holiday” by taking a leisurely, extra-long lunch, basking in the shaded warm sunshine. It was a memorable May Day.
Piatti is very popular, so reservations are strongly recommended. The ambiance is comfortable, the prices are reasonable, and the food is sensational. Piatti is open for lunch and dinner and features a weekend brunch. The restaurant is located at 2182 Avenida de la Playa. Call 858-454-1589 for information and reservations.
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