CyberEater Review

Sage Restaurant - A New Meaning For Sage

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.© 2007 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

“English is such a difficult language,” my lovely companion exclaimed. “Take the word “Sage”. It can be defined as a wise man or it can mean a bush of the mint family, like sagebrush.”

“I have a whole new meaning for you,” I replied. “It is also the name of the newest restaurant at Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino.”

To reinforce my point, I took her there to dinner. We drove along freeways until we reached Lakeside. There, the roads became picturesque winding country lanes, meandering through countryside. I saw green fields and fruit trees blossoming in the sunlight, visual joys I seldom glimpse when driving speedily on multi-laned concrete ribbons.

Turning a corner, suddenly Barona, glistened in the distance like the Emerald City in the Land of Oz. Large buildings stood up from the landscaped grounds and paved roadways and parking lots – the hotel, the casino, the marriage chapel. Barona is more than a gaming destination. It is a pleasure destination, where guests come to relax and enjoy, not just to stare intently and hopefully at cards and video monitors. Rooms at the hotel are large and comfortable, attracting guests from all over as well as local residents who want to get away for a few days. “Our occupancy rate is extremely high, one of the highest in the county,” Scott Kidd told me.

Kidd is the Executive Director of Food and Beverages. His department’s staff make up over 25% of the 3, 500 employees at the Resort. “During 2006, we served over 2 ½ million meals and bought over $12 million of food,” he confided. Beneath the floor of the casino, a huge kitchen area is where food is stored and prepared by an assemblage of talented chefs.

Barona features a number of restaurant operations to feed hungry hotel guests and casino players. Barona Oaks Steakhouse is the “fine dining” venue. In addition, there is a buffet with numerous food stations, a noodle shop for exotic Oriental flavors and a food court for quick and easy dining. Sage Café is the latest addition.

I loved the room from the moment I entered. I was greeted by a team of smiling hostesses who guided me through the waiting area to my table. But the waiting area itself was impressive. Comfortable couches and a glowing fireplace make a delay in getting seated almost into a pleasurable experience.

The dining room itself was simpy beautiful. Soft, muted colors gave it a sense of calm, refreshing after spending time in a casino filled with the ringing tones of winning jackpots. The ceiling soared high, giving the room great volume, punctuated by impressive thick wooden beams that ran its width. Tables were well separated, so diners experienced great privacy. Watercolors of photos actually taken on the property framed the walls. A Conservatory section of the room offers panoramic views of Barona’s champion golf course and colorful grounds.

Executive Chef Androssy Escamilla was brought on board to launch Sage. He is well experienced with new local restaurant concepts, having been in charge of the openings of Island Prime on Harbor Island and the Marriott in the Gaslamp Quarter. He trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York and worked at the city’s Cena and Charlie Palmer’s Aureole. His phenomenal background and skill are forming the identity of Sage.

Don’t fill up on the delightfully different Indian bread. Wait for the starters. The combination plate includes grilled calamari, sweet corn fritters and chicken wings that are baked rather than deep fried to give them great taste and texture. “The broiled salmon is superb,” my companion gushed. “I’m so pleased you brought me here.” My own New York steak was perfectly grilled, topped with herb butter. Beer Braised Short Ribs and Grilled Lamb Sirloin with Tomato Mint Salsa are among the other entrees.

There is also an Asian portion to the menu, specially created by Chef Wai Lau that include such savory temptations as Honey Glazed Walnut Prawns.

“Sage is open 24 hours a day,” Chef Escamilla added, “so one can even dine on toast and eggs for dinner. We serve our entire menu all day long.”

Desserts include Cinnamon Carrot Cake and Chocolate Decadence. I opted for a wonderful dish of berries topped by a strawberry carved as a flower.

“We always look to what our guests enjoy and order repeatedly. We have our core items on the menu but we always try new dishes. I may even try to bring in some French cuisine in the future,” Chef Escamilla concluded, reflecting on his academic training.

It would not surprise me if a sage would recommend dining at Sage. The food is excellent, the prices are moderate and the ambiance is wonderful. And, with load of energy after dining, the possibility of being a winner at the casino always beckons.

Sage and Barona are located at 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road in Lakeside, off Highway 67. Call 888-7-Barona (888-722-7662) for information and directions.

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