CyberEater Review

The Charthouse -- Room With A View

By David Rottenberg

David Rottenberg is the editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a guide to many of the city’s favorite restaurants. He is also a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association and the North American Travel Journalists Association. Dining San Diego Magazine is available free at major hotel and other visitor locations as well as at most major condominiums and large corporate offices.© 2004 David Rottenberg All Rights Reserved

The number one feature most often asked for by visitors to San Diego when they looking for a restaurant is the desire for a view. But trained concierge know that it is important to find out, before making a recommendation, “What kind of a view do you like?” After all, there are skyline views, rooftop views, garden views, country club views, the views from the tops of mountains, and more. The most frequent request is for a dramatic ocean view.

One of the finest such views is at the Chart House Restaurant at Cardiff By The Sea in North County. Perhaps the operative words are “by the sea” because the restaurant is located at the water’s edge. There is a small “restaurant row” in Cardiff and the Chart House is located at the end of the row, offering an open view to the south, where the curve of the bay makes a graceful, tree-lined arch.

Large boulders line the water’s edge, creating a rugged scene through the large, picture windows. During high tides, water breaks along the rocks dramatically. At night, lights from the restaurant shine onto the breaking waves, giving the foaming water an iridescent quality. During the day, dolphins and seals can be seen frolicking in the water. It would not be surprising that sharp eyed diners could even view a whale or two during the seasonal runs.

The interior of the restaurant is also lovely. The entire wall facing the ocean is made of glass. The roofs are high and curved, with a large chandelier one of the light sources. Seating is comfortably on varying levels to offer unobstructed views. The interior flow is similar to Peohe’s, one of the sister restaurants to The Chart House. A comfortable bar runs along one side. Another bar, for dining, allows guests to watch the action in the kitchen. Gerardo Nava is the culinary mastermind behind the great food that comes out of the busy cooking area.

Chart House is one of the chains of restaurants owned by Landry’s Restaurants Inc, which operates many brands around the country. At one time, there were at least three Chart House units in San Diego. One unit was located in La Jolla and another at the Rowing Club downtown. Landry’s acquired the chain 6 years ago. David Volz, the general manager of the existing Chart House, was working at the time. “The Landry’s acquisition was wonderful,” he enthused. “They improved operations, renovated all the restaurants, brought in new product and emphasized service! The way servers interact with diners is very important to them.”

The name “Chart House” suggests a nautical theme but the menu listed good selections of meat along with fresh fish. There is a raw bar, offering oysters, mussels, and seared ahi. The garlic aromas coming from the steamed mussels are absolutely mouthwatering. Other appetizers include Lobster Spring Rolls that are deep fried into deliciousness, served with a tangy mustard sauce.

Lobster Bisque can define the quality of a dining experience. At the Chart House, Lobster Bisque should be on the signature dishes. Served in a hot iron kettle, one can become instantly transfixed just by inhaling the fragrances of the dish. The full bodied taste overflows with the flavors of cream, spice and lobster. In fact, large chunks of lobster float in the broth, adding crunch to the liquid.

Fresh fish is brought in daily. In fact, the menu is printed daily. Halibut, sea bass, Mahi Mahi, snapper and other fish can be served grilled, baked, blackened or in specialty preparations like Macadamia Crusted Halibut. And, of course, excellent crab and lobster are served, often with drawn butter.

Steaks, prime rib and chicken entrees include Filet Mignon, Tenderloin Medallions, Chicken Marsala and lots of prime rib. Some meat dishes come with shrimp, a surf and turf combination. Whether from land or from sea, entrees are good size portions and very satisfying.

The signature house dessert is Lava Cake, oozing chocolate from the cake’s center – a delightfully sweet way to end a meal. When paying the moderate bill, consider joining the Viewpoints Frequent Dining program to earn points towards discounts and rewards for future meals.

The Chart House is open for dinner daily as well as for lunch Wednesday through Saturday. A Sunday Brunch menu lets diners enhance their weekends with great food and great views.

The Chart House is located at 2588 South Coast Highway 101. The easiest way to get there is to take Highway 5 to the Manchester exit and then turn towards the ocean. Call 760-436-4044 for reservations and information.

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